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Cameroni's patience pays, elite ascents keep rolling
1 min read
Cameroni's Eye in the Sky
Patience and precision: the formula for hard first ascents.
Giuliano Cameroni completed Eye in the Sky (8C) in Valle Bavona after roughly ten sessions of projecting, blending power and technique with meticulous footwork and body tension [Source: 8a.nu]. Since 2014, Cameroni has established 26 boulders graded 8C or harder, including two 9a first ascents. His training philosophy—visualization paired with targeted muscle work—lets him climb hard almost daily without burnout, mixing moonboard sessions in summer before applying the strength to winter outdoor projects.
The method proves that obsession beats raw talent.
Redpoints across the grades
The elite tier is stacking sends at every grade.
Emilie Gerhardt sent Wrestling with an alligator (8B) in Maltatal after a work-driven break, her second 8B and another mark on a career studded with over a dozen 8A grades [Source: 8a.nu]. Noah Wheeler flashed an 8B the same day he sent Sound of Violence (8C) at Joe's Valley on his first visit, armed with a left-hand gaston throw that matched his style. His tension board training is translating cleanly to outdoor movement after he switched from youth competition to bouldering two years ago.
This is not luck—this is climbers hitting their stride.
Sharma routes get ticked
The hardest routes are still finding their grade.
Jakob Schubert made the second ascent of Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat near Barcelona and downgraded it from 9b+ to hard 9a+ [Source: 8a.nu]. Brian Squire completed both Pegasus and Sound of Violence—both 8C—in Joe's Valley within minutes of each other, showing that the zone conditions and his beta read were locked in tight. Grade consensus often lags behind the actual climbers; when Schubert and Squire tick hard lines back-to-back, the climbing world recalibrates.
The real grade emerges only after the strong ones send.
4 - Vertical-Life | Climbing Community & News - Find, Log & Share24 hours ago ... France's Oriane Bertone, last year's World Cup winner, is the new European Bouldering Champion. France dominated the competition, placing three climbers in the ...8a.nu

Emilie Gerhardt completed Wrestling with an alligator (8B) in Maltatal after taking a break from climbing due to work commitments at her boulder gym. The ascent marks another significant achievement for Gerhardt, who was a Youth World Champion silver medalist in 2013 and has amassed over a dozen 8A grades and two 8B's throughout her climbing career. Noah Wheeler sent Sound of Violence (8C) at Joe's Valley on his first day there, using a left-hand gaston throw beta that suited his style, and subsequently flashed an 8B the same day. Wheeler, who has previously completed nine 8B+ ascents, transitioned to outdoor bouldering two years ago after competing in youth nationals and credits his tension board training for translating well to outdoor climbing styles.
6 - Vertical-Life | Climbing Community & News - Find, Log & Share19 hours ago ... France's Oriane Bertone, last year's World Cup winner, is the new European Bouldering Champion. France dominated the competition, placing three climbers in the ...8a.nu

Giuliano Cameroni completed the first ascent of Eye in the Sky (8C) in Valle Bavona after around ten sessions of projecting. He describes the boulder as requiring a mix of power and technique with precise footwork and body tension. Since 2014, Cameroni has completed 26 boulders graded 8C or 8C+, including ten first ascents, and two 9a first ascents. His training approach focuses on visualization and understanding which muscles are needed for harder moves, allowing him to train almost daily while staying fresh. He incorporates moonboard training in summer before applying the gained strength to outdoor climbing in winter. Several other significant ascents were logged: Marwin Winkler completed Chilam Salsera (9a) in Villanueva del Rosario after struggling with the crux boulder for years; Lucy Mitchell sent Freefight intégral (8c), a 50-meter route in Luberon; Brian Squire completed both Pegasus (8C) and Sound of Violence (8C) in Joe's Valley within minutes of each other; Michaela Kiersch onsighted Crimptonite (8b+) in Oliana and redpointed Victima Perfecta (9a+) in Margalef after multiple attempts; and Babsi Zangerl redpointed Pungitopo (8c+) in Arco after six days of climbing.
642 - Vertical-Life | Climbing Community & News - Find, Log & Share18 hours ago ... France's Oriane Bertone, last year's World Cup winner, is the new European Bouldering Champion. France dominated the competition, placing three climbers in the ...8a.nu

Molly Thompson-Smith returned to competition climbing after recovering from a pulley injury that sidelined her through most of the year. The British climber, ranked #7 in the 2017 Lead World Cup, completed a climbing trip to Spain where she ascended Kale Borraka 8b+ in Siurana and Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya. She plans to compete in all lead World Cups next year and some bouldering events, while targeting Olympic qualification. Jakob Schubert, this year's Lead and Combined World Champion, made the second ascent of Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat near Barcelona, grading it hard 9a+ rather than the original 9b/+ assessment. Felipe Camargo repeated Sharma's Gancho Perfecto 9a in Margalef after two months of effort, suggesting an upgrade to 9a+. Matilda Söderlund sent Pure Imagination 8c+ in Red River Gorge after returning to serious climbing following years focused on her MBA.